Ireland’s Wonderful Whiskey

Introducing The Merrion’s own Whistler Whiskey, already the stuff of legend.

“One hundred years ago, Irish whiskey ruled the world,” says Paddy Cooney of the Boann Distillery. “Ninety per cent of whiskey in the world was Irish. Then Prohibition came along…” In 1920s America, Irish whiskey became associated with the illicit home-grown hooch known as Moonshine, which was made when locals couldn’t get their hands on the real thing. It was passed off as being from the Emerald Isle, and tarnished by the association, Irish whiskey lost its lustre.

This sad story has a very happy ending however, as Irish whiskey survived with proud distilleries including Kilbeggan, Jameson and Bushmills carrying the flame. Since the turn of the Millennium, Paddy says, Ireland has gone from just three distilleries, to 45, and there are more on the way. Paddy is warming to his subject, as we celebrate the launch of The Merrion’s very own Whistler whiskey, which has been made with the Cooney Family, at their Boann Distillery, in the heart of the beautiful Boyne Valley.

The Boyne is important because water is vital to whiskey, not simply, as some tasters suggest, to “open it up” with a small drop, or to make the ice that goes with it, but because water is a key ingredient. The River Boyne is also more than a water source, it is the stuff of legends. “There are a lot of legends in these parts,” Cooney laughs, but the tale we’re telling is that of the Irish River Goddess, Boann. And at the Boann Distillery they also have their very own well.

Boann, it is said, was walking at the Well of Segais, which bestowed both knowledge and a poetic tongue on anyone who drank its waters. Suffice to say, things didn’t go as planned, the well waters rushed up to meet the Goddess, drowning her, and creating the River Boyne in the process. With that pedigree, it’s only a small step to believing that whiskey made in these parts, especially whiskey made by a distillery named in the Goddess’s honour, must surely convey a little bit of those intriguing gifts on those who sip?

Irish Whiskey is very different to Scotch Whisky (note the missing letter ‘e’ in the latter!), and it is a difference that goes beyond the peatyness that so defines Scotch. Irish Whiskey is distilled three times, as opposed to two, bringing it a beautiful smoothness. And Paddy notes that there are broader rules to blending, allowing Irish whiskey to embrace a wider scope of tastes. “The Whistler,” he says, “allows us to explore all possible combinations of deliciousness.”

But where does that intriguing name come from? The Cooney family have been making drinks in Ireland for over 40 years, with every family member involved, including – and perhaps especially – Max, the distillery dog. The Whistler is named for Pat Cooney, the family patriarch, who likes to walk the distillery halls, whistling as he goes. At the distillery, whiskey is finished in casks, which impart their array of flavours. The Whistler X Merrion Hotel is a 10-year-old single malt, which has been spending time in Premier Grand Cru casks from Bordeaux. These have been fired to add a gently toasted layer of taste and are known as New Era Oak Casks, or NEOCs.

The new Whistler X Merrion Hotel whiskey follows in the tasty footsteps of the Merrion Lemon Infused Gin, an immediate classic, which launched earlier this summer. As the Cellar Back is in full flow, with music on Wednesday and Thursday evenings between 6pm – 8pm, alongside an extended dining menu too, it definitely is a very good time to visit. Or book a spot at one of The Merrion’s upcoming Whiskey Fireside Chats, highlighting flights of whiskeys, paired with canapés, and tasting notes from leading experts and aficionados. Featuring in the new series are Single Cask Whiskeys including The Whistler on October 3, Japanese Whiskeys from Suntory on October 10, and an exploration of Cognac with Louis XIII on November 7.

The Merrion’s Whistler tasting notes include a nose of velvety honey and pear, moving into vanilla, toffee and spice. The flavour brings out that pear and there is an appley hint too, with a malty sweetness and a softer spice lingering on the finish. Describing the  qualities that mark Irish Whiskey out, Paddy says that it is always “approachable, smooth, and with more complexity.” Perhaps a little like the Irish themselves?