Dublin By Sea
Dublin by Sea
Journeying by sea from the heart of the city to Dalkey Island, Killiney and the Hill of Howth, a Dublin Bay Harbour Cruise opens up histories, myths and more.
Waiting to board the Saint Bridget, there is a sense of excitement in the air. Boats are bobbing in the harbour, and the gentle clinking sound of sail ropes on masts adds to the lapping of the waves. We are cruising from Dún Laoghaire to Howth, where we have planned a seafood lunch at one of the pretty village’s waterfront restaurants. En route we will learn of pirates and saints, famous sea captains and remarkable engineers. Seagulls soar, and eyes are peeled for the harbour seals that make these waters their home.
A family tradition
Dublin Bay Cruises run a schedule of sailings that bring you from a choice of points. Starting from the City Centre, Dún Laoghaire and Howth, they take in routes with itineraries including such spots as Dalkey Island, the coast of Killiney, Ireland’s Eye, and Lambay. It’s hard to choose, as city departures, leaving from St John Rogerson’s Quay share a whole new perspective on Dublin’s famous River Liffey, its bridges and buildings; while Howth and Dún Laoghaire have their own coastal charms.
Owners of the Saint Bridget, or Naomh Bríd as she is known locally, the Garrihy family have been sailing Ireland’s waters since the 1940s, first as fishermen off the rugged west coast, and then as captains and guides, bringing visitors to Galway’s Aran Islands, and the Cliffs of Moher in Co Clare.
Purpose-built, the St Bridget is charming and friendly, rather than lavishly luxurious. She is also, as of this year, more environmentally friendly than ever, as she slips through the waters powered by HVO biofuel, which Eugene Garrihy estimates will reduce emissions by up to 90%. With Dublin Bay’s designation as a UNESCO Biosphere, and the team joining local beach clean ups, your views are pretty pristine, wherever you sail.
On board the St Bridget
There’s something calming about being out on the water. Exploring the sweep of Dublin Bay from the sea is fascinating as well as fun, and en route we gain some glimpses into the lives of the Irish, past and present, laughing at the wry Dublin wit of guide, Aaron Twyford. Warning us to take some of his stories with a pinch of salt, he points out Killiney Hill, and Dalkey Quarry where the stone for Dún Laoghaire harbour was carved out. The pier was built in the 1760s under the supervision of Captain Charles Vallancey who, when he wasn’t working on harbour walls, also managed to father twenty-seven children, by three of his four wives.
Rounding the bay, we see Dalkey Island, where St Begnet’s Holy Well was said to cure scurvy back in the day. More recent investigations, according to the informative Aaron, discovered unusually high levels of Vitamin C, making the waters miraculous indeed. Then, sailing on out into the open waters, we see the red and white Pigeon House chimneys rising out of a light sea mist, and after that, Bull Island, and the Bull Wall, built by Captain Bligh, of Mutiny on the Bounty Fame.
As the caves and cliffs, beaches and swathes of green of Howth hove into view, we start to see the mansions that sit on the hill, from Victorian piles to sleek modernist palaces. There are lighthouses, and out to sea, yachts in full sail, fishing boats with their entourages of hungry birds, and large cargo ships waiting their turn to come into berth in Dublin. Light dances on the waters, and we search the skies for kittiwakes, and the shores for the puffins that make their home on Ireland’s Eye. There are wallabies on Lambay Island, Aaron says. They were sent there back in the day on an extended vacation from Dublin Zoo, and never left. Bring binoculars, because you never know!
Aboard and onshore
You are advised to arrive fifteen minutes ahead of sailing times, but get there early to have your choice of seat. Up front gets the best views, but it can get breezy, so you’re more sheltered in the main body of the boat, where there are rows of seats. There is also seating outside on the lower deck, and plenty more indoors, where you’ll find a small drinks and snack bar. Wear layers, as once out in the bay the it can feel chilly even on the warmest days. Access is via gangway, and depending on tides it can be steep, but the crew are on hand to help.
Sailing times range from just over an hour to two hours and more, and some people opt for back-to-back trips to see the full sweep of the bay. Back on shore, there are lovely seafood restaurants along the harbour at Howth, while Dún Laoghaire has a row of restaurants and cafés along the waterfront across the road from the pier.
Dún Laoghaire and Howth are both easily accessible by DART, and the Dublin Bay Cruise departure points are an easy short walk from each. Find a schedule of sailings from €10 children / €15 adults at dublinbaycruises.com. Guests of The Merrion Hotel can book through the Concierge, who can also arrange a car or taxi to and from your chosen departure point.
